Bathroom ceiling air vent - water running through

[sanflower]

We live in central Arkansas. We have a 1999 Fuqua Star Pointe 1660, 70' x 28'. We were told by the dealer it was a modular home not a mobile. What is the difference? It came in two pieces, on its own wheels pulled by trucks. Five years before buying in 2000 we weighed the pros and cons of purchasing a MH versus a "stick home". This what we could afford at the time. We love the interior design. It is different. High pitch ceilings in the middle. Cathedral ceiling in the great room. The exterior has different pitches like a "stick house". With the landscaping I've done around it, it does not look like a MH, But it does have its problems, I guess like all MH. Doggone it!!!

We have had an ongoing problem with mold running from a straight line from wall to wall (ceiling angle is pitched) with the air vent in its direct path. I have suspected a roofing problem. But it only happens,that I know of, during a heavy rain. Insurance inspectors have said we don't cover blowing wind. They THOUGHT the rain was blowing into the outside vent cover. But today I finally got a visual on it actually happening. It was as if someone was standing outside over the vent cap and pour water down the hole (in other words not a drip). The wind was not blowing. It was raining heavily. (I've got pictures now.)

Also inspectors always ask "have you caulked around your vents this year". Supposedly you are suppose to perform yearly maintenance yourself and recaulk every year around vents, skylight (that's another issue - seeing water damage there, too; with mold build up on the light cover of the inset flurescent fixture parellel to it.)

Question 1: Anyone with experience/expertise on any of these issues?

Question 2: Do you always yearly have to recaulk everything, isn't there some kind of strong sealer that with hold up for longer. I tell my husband we need to get a metal roof. But would that also have its own draw backs?

Question 3: To keep skylight or not to keep skylight (we love it), but would appreciate opinions/experience.

Question 4: In a MH repairs for the homeowner book I bought (think it was meant for pre-1990 homes, but has some good tips), they talk about rubber roofing. What is the story on that, anyone still doing that?

Wish I could enclose pictures. I have alot of questions and pictures would help explain what is happening. Like about cracks in the marriage(?)line (top middle of MH), who is responsible for fixing that big task and how? Adding on a covered porch/deck to front and back. Do you build unattached, attached to the roof? How can we build what we want and still make sure this does not cause any additional roofing, leaking problems?

I'm so glad I found this site. I really hope ya'll came guide me in a positive, effective, productive direction. Thank you. And if I need to post this same message on any other forum related to MH, please direct me. Thank you.

[David Oxhandler]

The difference between a manufactured and modular home is the building code followed when the home is assembled in the factory.

That you are seeing a line of damage developed along the path of the heat/air duct could indicate that water is getting in is dripping on and then running along the duct work but it is more likely that you have considerable moisture in the space above the ceiling and it is condensing on the duct work and staining the ceiling.

Wherever the water is getting in, if you are already seeing mold developing inside your home you are living with a serious potential health hazard that you must address as soon as possible.

If you have water pouring in at this location for some time it is likely that there has been some damage to the surrounding roof decking and possibly the shingles and you need more than a bead of caulk to repair the problem. The roof vent is not just a pipe that extends thru the roof. The vent cap includes a base that sits below the shingles and extends out in all directions called flashing.

"If the flashing around your vent (called a flange) is old or failing for any reason, you will need access to the area of your roof beneath it. This is a bit of a task, so read it thoroughly before you begin, because it will involve both removing and replacing shingles and may prove tedious enough that you’ll want to hire someone to do it for you."

If you decide that you would like to try this yourself see the well illustrated article How to Seal Vent Flashing at the RepairHome web site.

Roof caps are relatively inexpensive and any time I have gone to the trouble and expense of opening the shingle system to seal the vent I almost always replace the cap, eliminating the possibility of a defective leaky cap. Go beyond the illustrated article and open the roof system down to the decking. If water has been pouring in for some time it would not be unusual that the decking below the vent flange has been wet, rotting and in need of replacement.

Once the roof is sealed you must address the mold problem...

"Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people. Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold."

See A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home from U.S. Environmental Protection Agency