longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
I'm told mobile homes, at least those made in the 80's and earlier, are not constructed to the same standards or with the same materials as standard homes; that they are difficult to repair because they were not designed with repairs in mind and that their innards are largely inaccessible.
Is it unreasonable to think that one made in the mid 80's can be maintained indefinitely and continue increasing in value, or is it more likely that it will biodegrade into worthlessness?
Is it unreasonable to think that one made in the mid 80's can be maintained indefinitely and continue increasing in value, or is it more likely that it will biodegrade into worthlessness?
Re: longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
A well cared for 80's model manufactured home should last a caring homeowner another 40 years or so...The code in the 80's was essentially the same as the code today in most parts of the country....Repair of a manufactured home is actually easier and less expensive the the same for a "standard home"...With care your manufactured home will NOT "biodegrade"....
Enjoy it and care for it it will treat you well...
Enjoy it and care for it it will treat you well...
Re: longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
What's your opinion about a 1974 home that is well-maintained but pre-HUD?
Re: longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
I just traded a like new 1953 model home that has been used for 53 years mostly on a daily basis...Treat yours well..you should have many more years..even decades more good use..
Re: longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
I bought a 1983 Oakwood mobile home 6 yrs ago. I was wondering if you know how I can get copies of the zoning standards for my trailer, all I have is a title, and serial number. I need to move my home from one county to another, but the wind zone infomation that was in my closet has been destroyed.I need to get copies from
someone or the manufacturer. Also, is the structure of a 1983 home stable to be moved about 30 miles.
someone or the manufacturer. Also, is the structure of a 1983 home stable to be moved about 30 miles.
Re: longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
I assume you mean construction specs.....
First your home was built prior than the wind zone standards became law.....At best it will be wind zone 1...You will have to talk to the local building and zoning office to see if you can move it where you want....
I will be plenty sound enough to move for 30 miles.....Check with the building department and GO FOR IT....
First your home was built prior than the wind zone standards became law.....At best it will be wind zone 1...You will have to talk to the local building and zoning office to see if you can move it where you want....
I will be plenty sound enough to move for 30 miles.....Check with the building department and GO FOR IT....
Re: longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
We own a 1988 Double wide that has been moved twice, as well as a 1998 single wide. The maintenance, and construction on our 1988 is so much easier, as well as the materials are superior to the new materials that are used. We have real plywood floors in the '88 model, vs mdf in the 98. We also have large walll members in the 88, than in the 98. Our 1998 has had to have the duct work redone due to poor construction, where as the 88 is far superior in workmanship.. A great deal depends on the manufacture. The only issue with the 88 model is that we had the "grey" qest pipe, which we replaced anyway...
Best wishes...
Jennifer
Best wishes...
Jennifer
Re: longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
I agree that older homes can last a long time. In my area of Florida I typically find mobile homes that should be in a museum!!!!
Most of the older parks have homes with the installed taillights and sidelight markers still intact. They usually have plywood floors and thicker aluminum siding which is superior to a lot of the homes built in the 90s. Yes, the dreaded gray plumbing needs to be replaced but once that is done, there's absolutely no reason why one of those 70s or 80s homes shouldn't last another 40 years if well cared for. The weakest part is the roof which will probably need a roof-over after about 20 years. I've seen plenty of gorgeous, solid homes that are still around that were manufactured in the 70s.
As far as moving an older home, yes, check with the building dept to find out the requirements. It may need an inspection from a qualified mover/installer to qualify it for moving. Call your state DMV to get the rules on moving an older home. Florida passed stricter laws than most states because of the olders homes here and hurricanes. The laws are concerned with not allowing Pre Hud homes to be moved because they weren't built to wind zone standards for the area nor were they installed with hurricanes in mind. Most pre HUD homes in Florida have only 2 over-the-roof tie-downs while newer homes have a tie-down every 5'4". Wind Zone 1 is suitable for most parts of the country. Coastal areas like Florida require Wind Zone 2 homes while the coastline areas require WZ 3. Check with your DMV for the rules.
Jim Pack
Most of the older parks have homes with the installed taillights and sidelight markers still intact. They usually have plywood floors and thicker aluminum siding which is superior to a lot of the homes built in the 90s. Yes, the dreaded gray plumbing needs to be replaced but once that is done, there's absolutely no reason why one of those 70s or 80s homes shouldn't last another 40 years if well cared for. The weakest part is the roof which will probably need a roof-over after about 20 years. I've seen plenty of gorgeous, solid homes that are still around that were manufactured in the 70s.
As far as moving an older home, yes, check with the building dept to find out the requirements. It may need an inspection from a qualified mover/installer to qualify it for moving. Call your state DMV to get the rules on moving an older home. Florida passed stricter laws than most states because of the olders homes here and hurricanes. The laws are concerned with not allowing Pre Hud homes to be moved because they weren't built to wind zone standards for the area nor were they installed with hurricanes in mind. Most pre HUD homes in Florida have only 2 over-the-roof tie-downs while newer homes have a tie-down every 5'4". Wind Zone 1 is suitable for most parts of the country. Coastal areas like Florida require Wind Zone 2 homes while the coastline areas require WZ 3. Check with your DMV for the rules.
Jim Pack
Re: longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
I HAVE RECENTLY BOUGHT A MOBILE HOME IN KEY WEST PRIOR TO THE LAST HURRICANE. THE UNIT ITSELF APPEARED INTACT TO FRIENDS WHO KEEP AN EYE ON THINGS. HOWEVER, I GOT TO KEY WEST THIS PAST WEEK. IT HAS BEEN LONG TIME SINCE THE HURRICANE AND IT LOOKS LIKE ALL THE INSULATION IS HANGING BELOW THE UNIT. IT LOOKS LIKE QUITE A MESS. EVEN WORSE THERE ARE AREAS INSIDE WHERE THE FLOOR IS REAL MUSHY. IF WE USE THIS UNIT FREQUENTLY SURELY THE AREAS THAT FEEL LIKE DRY ROT WILL NOT BE ABLE TO SUSTAIN THE WEIGHT OF CONTSTANT TRAFFIC. THE INSIDE IS LOVELY AND HAS BEEN BEAUTIFULLY FURNISHED, BUT THE WRITING IS ON THE WALL REGARDING THE ABOVE MENTIONED AREAS. THE FLOORING AND CARPETING IS BEAUTIFUL. MY DELIMA IS HOW THE REPAIR THE FLOORS AND LOWER WALLS THAT HAVE BEEN EFFECTED BY WATER OVER TIME. I APPRECIATE ANY INFORMATION YOU CAN GIVE ME. I LIVE AND WORK IN MASSACHUSETTS SO I AM NOT CLOSE BY. I NEED TO DEPEND ON FRIENDS TO WATCH OUT FOR THE PROPERTY.
THANK YOU,
DONNA SMYTH
THANK YOU,
DONNA SMYTH
Re: longevity of mobile homes build in mid-eighties
Donna,
First you must determine if your floors are made of plywood or particle board.
If the floors are of particle board, you will probably have to have all the floors replaced with plywood eventually. This will be an expensive and messy project. I would suggest doing the areas which are in need the most first. In order to do this properly, the particle board floors should be removed and replaced with plywood. Some people try to take the shortcut and just overlay. This is a poor idea.
If the floors are plywood, you may just have a few areas of rot and can just do some spot replacement.
The underbelly : All of the old insulation should be removed. It is recommended that the underneath be sprayed with a mildew inhibitor such as sporiciden. this is a good time to really check the overall condition of the flooring from underneath. Then new insulation may be installed using standard home insulation which may be attached using a spray glue to hold it up. The last step is to replace the covering on the bottom. This material is black plastic material with reinforcing webbing in the plastic and may be purchased in rolls from a mobile home supply store. This is the most difficult part of the project. We use 4 foot surveyor stakes to roll into the end of the plastic and then staple to the floor joists stretching it tightly before stapleing. You will need a special pneumatic stapler which will shoot long staples. If you have to hire a contractor to do this, be sure to get references and inspect other jobs they have done. Most contractors in the mobile home business tend to do a less than professional job and it will come down again in a matter of weeks or months. You need to take care of this ASAP because the moisture rizing from underneath the home will further damage your flooring. Be sure there is no standing water under your home. If there is, make a plan to drain this water away. You should not have any standing water under your home at any time.
We have mobile home rental units in Texas where flooding is common. We also buy and sell repos. We have been in this business for near 40 yrs so we have seen just about everything and fixed just about everything imaginable.
First you must determine if your floors are made of plywood or particle board.
If the floors are of particle board, you will probably have to have all the floors replaced with plywood eventually. This will be an expensive and messy project. I would suggest doing the areas which are in need the most first. In order to do this properly, the particle board floors should be removed and replaced with plywood. Some people try to take the shortcut and just overlay. This is a poor idea.
If the floors are plywood, you may just have a few areas of rot and can just do some spot replacement.
The underbelly : All of the old insulation should be removed. It is recommended that the underneath be sprayed with a mildew inhibitor such as sporiciden. this is a good time to really check the overall condition of the flooring from underneath. Then new insulation may be installed using standard home insulation which may be attached using a spray glue to hold it up. The last step is to replace the covering on the bottom. This material is black plastic material with reinforcing webbing in the plastic and may be purchased in rolls from a mobile home supply store. This is the most difficult part of the project. We use 4 foot surveyor stakes to roll into the end of the plastic and then staple to the floor joists stretching it tightly before stapleing. You will need a special pneumatic stapler which will shoot long staples. If you have to hire a contractor to do this, be sure to get references and inspect other jobs they have done. Most contractors in the mobile home business tend to do a less than professional job and it will come down again in a matter of weeks or months. You need to take care of this ASAP because the moisture rizing from underneath the home will further damage your flooring. Be sure there is no standing water under your home. If there is, make a plan to drain this water away. You should not have any standing water under your home at any time.
We have mobile home rental units in Texas where flooding is common. We also buy and sell repos. We have been in this business for near 40 yrs so we have seen just about everything and fixed just about everything imaginable.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests