tongues and ceilings

[todd]

I posted this in the repair forum also. Thanks for any help.

Hi all. First post. Great to find a site with folks who actually know what you're asking about.

First thing. I own a 1987 Keyport Dbl. wide that's about 28' X 44' from overhang to eaves. About 42' X 26'-8" box dimensions. I only owe a few thousand bucks on the thing and have seriously thought about moving it to a basement set on a property. A couple of things I need to figure out before even considering this. The fools who set it took the tongues! Grrr.... I've been told it's nearly impossible to find a tongue that willl come anywhere near bolting up. Also that all mfrs. make frame widths different and that even finding one with the same frame spacing is unlikely. If I could find one that has the right spacing(width)I have been told that it could be welded in place for the move and then cut off. Think I could find a welder or mover willing to buy trip insurance on such contraption?

As to the basement set, my Dad set one up about 12 years ago with the beam pockets and 8" cross beams. The only thing I remember being a little dubious about was the end walls of the basement. The contractor set two pockets at each end that were about 4" deep and the width of the frame spacing plus about 2" so there was pently of room for setting the beast. Is there some alternative to these unsightly(and I think, wall weakening)pockets? Can the end of the frames be cut back a few inches and then have a pilaster cast right into the wall at each frame rail location to support the ends?

Lastly, and sorry to make such a lengthy post, how about ceiling material? I have drywall that is set from eave to center peak on 4' centers. No finishing between seams. Just butted up. After such a move I can't help but think the ceiling will be in abominable condition. I also am having a heat load problem and I think it's due to the settling of the blown insulation in the trusses. I had thought about ripping down the cheesy looking 3/8" drywall(nicely shows a dip beween every truss) and installing 1"X8" tongue & groove pine boards. Stopping every few feet to roll insualtion batts into the truss cavities. Any opinions on this? The major question that came up to me was fire rating of the t&g material.

[rmurray]

I will answer the parts that I have a little knowledge in...

Tongues...They are not interchangable....They will have to be welded in place...You should have no problem here if you use an experienced welder...Call a used manufactured home dealer in your area...He will have experienced welders and movers that he could recommend...This is done almost everyday...

I know nothing about basement sets...

Insulation can be reblown while the home is apart during the moving process at very attractive prices....The cieling should make the trip well....of course you mentioned sagging and might want to change it anyway...I have not seen a wood cieling in many years...but I see no reason you should not be able to do this...but..I think I would leave the sheetrock and do the insulation when the home is open..and overlay the cieling..lot less of a mess..

[todd]

Thanks for the response. I will look into reblowing the insulation. I didn't know if there was access to the truss area without tearing out chunks of the ceiling.

[rmurray]

when the home is apart for transit...it is wide open and you could do this job yourself with a rented blower...Total cost would be very low..