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Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:14 am
Well I live in North Central Kansas and I just bought this mobile and it needs to be set up I just had it moved last week to its new home I talked to a guy here and he is suppose to send someone out to do the deed but it rained about 2 inches last night and now it won't be till next week I asked him if I should use solid block under the cinder block and he said that since it was on a concrete ribbon that it didn't need that also he wanted to put it up only 2 blocks high and that seems awful low to me 16in is pretty tight quarters He also said that it was a waste of money to put a vapor barrier down under the trailer and also I wanted to go with a double block pier but he said that a single block pier was fine Do you think he is legit or just trying to get 300 for doing it half way
Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:41 am
The standards for MH installation differ form state to state but are based on the federal installation code. In some areas where a vapor barrier is mandatory and serves an important purpose. In other areas where the soil wont hold water above ground a vapor barrier can be worse than useless and actually cause more moisture to hang under the home than if it was not there.
The height of the piers is usually a matter of choice. The fewer blocks used the less costly. I like to be able to get comfortably under my homes so I can work on the plumbing or other service issues that require crawling under the home. Working under a home that is only 2 blocks high is a semi nightmare. At only 16 inches of clearance it is difficult to do anything... including turning over on your back to work on the bottom of the home.
There is usually no reason to double pier unless your stacking the blocks extremely high. You will get better stability by adding additional piers.
Call three or four LICENSED installers and let then know you are looking for someone to set up your home. Ask about the installation code and common practices in your area. If the consensus differs from your installers choices tell him exactly what you want. Once he is done you will be stuck working around his choices. The price of $300 is comparatively VERY low for my area... Low enough that it concerns me. Be sure your using a licensed installer who will be forced to stand behind his work
Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:48 am
He is even providing all new block and wedges and he is letting bme use his anchor machine while he is there so I can install all my anchors But what do you think about not using the recommended 4in solid footing under the block do you think it is okay since I am in essence using the concrete ribbon as a footing ??
Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:08 pm
The correct answer depends on soil conditions climate and the width and depth of the concrete ribbon. The wider base block is used to distribute the weight transmitted thru the pier over a wider area of the ground... much in the same way a snow show will redistribute the weight of a person on top of high snow.
You REALLY need to find out what the local building department requires and run with the local standard... that is why I was suggesting calling a few different installers to see if their thinking matches the guy your stuck with but obviously have reason to doubt.
Don't take any easy ways out if you want to insure you will be able to enjoy your home for years to come. The VAST majority of problems that MH owners experience with their homes can be traced back to poor installation practices.
Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:38 pm
Yeah I got the jist of that I have been doing alot of research on setting up this thing the ribbons are probably about 16 inches wide and they are 6ins thick I think that is what the park manager told me
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 4:29 pm
I got my trailer setup and went to California to paint my moms house and when I got back winter was here so work is on hold till spring What I was wondering is does anyone have a clue if my 1973 Buddy has copper wiring or that nasty aluminum Thanks
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:54 pm
Buddy was a Skyline Brand name in 73. They took pride in their all copper wiring. Do not trust my memory. Safely remove a light switch or electric socket. Remove the wire and inspect it to see if it is copper. You should be able to see the wire at the ends in the electric box as well. Good Luck with your projects..
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:38 am
Hey rmurray thanks I had a guy from Skyline email me back yesterday and he said the same thing he also told me that I may also have all copper plumbing that would be awesome.You don't know where a fella could find any literature on that era of Buddy/Skyline home would you it is a 14x70 I do not know if you would have had more then one floor plan for that size mh or not.Any help would be great
Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 10:59 pm
Long time ago.. I looked through my collection of links and only found a picture of a 1958 model (not that large of course).. I am sure in 73 Buddy had a few 70 foot homes. NOT many would have been 14 wide though.. Most likely yours is a 12 wide and probably only 65 feet long (70 foot homes just started in this time frame and 14 wides were not legal yet in most states). When ever a builder built in a size range there would have been 2 or 3 possible floor plans. Most sizes had a 2 bedroom and 2 or 3 3 bedroom versions and the longest often had a 4 bedroom arrangement as well.There could well have been 4 or 5 versions of this largest home of the times..I doubt you will find any old literature in any ones archive this old..Good Luck with your project..
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 3:55 pm
Hey all...Any info on finding a floorplan for a 2006 Skyline, B604 (CTA?) Modular?
Ive been several hours/days looking on line with now luck so far.
Also interested to hear from anyone who owns one similar (Florida) with setup suggestions that will keep the ventillation A-1 but minimize the "trailer" look.
Want it to look like it belongs on a horse farm! Been looking at stone look panels for skirting but hard to visualize.