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4 wire service hook up from pole to fuse panel

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4 wire service hook up from pole to fuse panel

Postby » Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:31 pm

i am in need of help to learn how to hook up a 4 wire service from pole to fuse panel . i am able to hook up 3 wire with no problems but i am not sure of what to do with the 4 th i belive that it runs from the box in trailer to the disconect . i could use a little reasurance , if there is any help it would be soooo helpful ..

thank you chris
chris mullis offline

Re: 4 wire service hook up from pole to fuse panel

Postby » Sat Nov 20, 2004 7:47 am

You have two 110 leads and in your case one neutral and one ground.You may have two bus bars in your circuit box,hook the neutral to one for your circuits and the ground to the other. If you only have one bus bar for neutral the ground and neutral go together on that bar's lug.
Bill Fry offline

Re: 4 wire service hook up from pole to fuse panel

Postby » Sun Nov 21, 2004 9:42 am

Whoah...... Lest we not forget to check and see if the neutral bar bonds to the box-directly or through a bonding screw. If it does not you will have to either bond the neutral bar to the box or install a separate multi-lug bar that does bond to the box. The latter would be my choice as it's nice to be able to separate neutrals from grounds instead of always fighting for lug screw space.


P.S. This is only the case with the MAIN. In all sub-panels from the main the neutral should float while the ground always bonds.
Steve Hartman offline


Postby » Mon Nov 22, 2004 3:19 pm

go to the HUD code 3280.809(b)
" The grounded circuit conductor (neutral) shall be insulated from the grounding equipment enclosures and other grounded parts. The grounded (neutral) circuit terminals in the distribution panel board...shall be insulated from the equipment enclosure...."
The advise you guys gave creates a violation of the code!
Eugene offline


Postby » Mon Nov 22, 2004 3:46 pm

HUD code,not standard electrical code.It won't burn down the house either way.
Bill Fry offline


Postby » Tue Nov 23, 2004 8:48 am

well gee, isn't the home built to the HUD code?????
thats the problem with this industry, keep undermining the code and program that your homes are supposed to comply with, then try to explain to the public how good a code/program it is!

if you are going to apply the "standard electrical code" (NEC) you have a lot of work to do! arc faults, gfci throughout kitchen, hall way receipts.....just to name a few. You can;t have it both ways Bill!!!!!

Or are you just saying it is ok to violate the HUD code? Or should we check with you first?
Eugene offline


Postby » Wed Nov 24, 2004 6:01 am

I had a reply for your last comments posted yesterday Eugene.After about 3 hours it got removed.Seems refering to the HUD code in a negative way isn''t allowed around here.Silly,but posts do get removed from time to time if whom ever doesnt approve or agree with them.
Bill Fry offline


Postby » Mon Nov 29, 2004 11:17 pm

Sorry Eugene, I agree with Bill. After all the NEC has been around alot longer than HUD and has real workers-not beaureaucrats running the show. Bonding at the main for both neutral and ground is extra insurance against disaster. Further, if for some reason you lost your neutral between the pole and the main and their was no common main-box bond between your neutral and ground there could be serious repercussions. After all.....that's why we slave to install ground rods in the ground, so if there is a loss of neutral and/or ground between the main and the pole, your ground rod acts as the safety. If the nuetral floats in the box and the ground is not tied you're gonna end up witha serious 240 volt problem on your 120 circuits. Or if you prefer...230/115 or 220/110........

You see, if the neutral and ground are tied at the main you'll still maintain your lower voltage integrity (through the ground wire out through the ground rod to the earth neutral via the power company's bonding of neutral to ground . However, if you float the neutral and then loose it between the main and the pole, you're gonna get one side of the line picking up the other side of the line via backfeed through a disconnected neutral. Hence, throw the switch on your 120 bedroom fixture and you'll get 240 at the light bulb..... In essence.....POOF!
Steve Hartman offline


Postby » Thu Dec 02, 2004 12:12 pm


Go ahead and undermine the federal program, do away with it. You all will be out of business and living in homes you and the general public can't afford!
Nick offline


Postby » Sun Dec 05, 2004 8:33 pm

Uh, guys, this is spelled out in the HUD code already...

From 3280.803 (k) (3) (iii)

" (iii) The neutral conductor shall be connected to the system
grounding conductor on the supply side of the main disconnect in
accordance with Articles 250-23, 25, and 53 of NFPA No. 70-1993."

See, in a park, the feeds to each individual home are actually sub-feeds, so the grounded and grounding conductor should be separated. The bonding of the neutral bus has already been done upstream.

This is why these homes come ready to hook up with the two bars separated -- the majority of these homes are set up in parks.

However, in a home set up outside of a park and on private property, and fed by it's own service, then the neutral bus in the main should be bonded for safety reasons, as well as compliance with both the HUD code AND the NEC!!
kevin offline

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