The Manufactured Housing Forums

(3) 76' long footers were poured today.
The 2 outside footers are 3 feet wide. The middle one is 9 feet wide. They are 9" thick with the anchors set in the concrete. It turned out nice. The well is next......

Thanks for keeping us posted, we all learn from your experiences. -)

Thanks. I'm just trying to return the favor. Have a great day:)

Won't be long till I'm in your boat.

I want to "pit set" my home and hav e been told by the dealer that it will be $1000 more to do so because when they place the homs they like to "drive" the homes on rather than to roll them on which is what would happen with a pit set.

Sometime those "upgrades" are worth it. Any thoughts on this?

Hey Charlotte. My understanding of a "pit set" is o dig a hole in the earth about 2 feet deep and set the home "floor level" with the earth. To me, this causes two problems:
The first one is drainage. This will be a potential moisture problem, very bad for the underside of a home. Second, it gives the home no clearance for a time of heavy rain and or flooding. Not to mention the times when access under the home is necessary for repairs/maintenance. I definitely want my home "above grade". Maybe Mr.Murray or another expert can shed some light on this subject.........

I see your point about the moisture problem. I mean about rain etc. I know that its VERY BAD for thee underside of the home. I sometime need another voiced opinon to make me see things correctly.

The access issue as well.

Thanks, I'll certianly keep that in mind.

Not too familier with a "pit set"...All my experience is in FL and GA...In FL if you dig down 2 feet you hit water...the water table is about 6 inches in most places...In GA,,,try digging our 2 feet of red clay...you will be there a while..

Actually I thought most of those were set above grade and then back filled...This would cost substantially more than an extra $1000...

I hope someone with experience in the areas where this is done will comment...I have often wondered how the moisture problem is controled in these sets...

In ground foundation moisture control.

Moisture can be minimized by:
1. ensuring the crawl space area is sealed
2. ensure earth is sloped away from the house
3. moisture barrier under home
4. venting the crawl space area
5. ensure dryer is vented to the exterior
- gutters are recommended to move water away from the edge of the home

Typical design we use here in NM for an In-ground Permanent Foundation is:
- excavate 12-22 inches
- pour footer in base
- use block stem wall on top of footer perimeter
- seal block stem wall with Quikwall or Qbond type product
- put moisture barrier over the open earth areas in the footer
- accessibility under home is typically the same as if the home footer was set at the original grade level. Code & install manuals require about an 18" minimum restriction under the home.

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Jason

I think you just talked me out of a "Pit set", the reason behind that type of set is the difficulty I have with stairs, guess I can still use a ramp etc. Was tryng to avoid the use of stairs etc.

This type of set also seems a lot more expensive etc. I will be putting my home in SW Colorado, not too far from NM.

I also have a water table issue with a near by pond.

I live in NW Oregon. Initially I wanted to do this also, but was concerned about drainage. Instead, we had some fill brought in, and I was able to do a nice job with french drains on the high side - I don't think a hundred-year winter would put water underneath. You can have fill brought in near the entrances - at our back door, it wasn't even needed (slight slope). There are two 7" steps.