Marco Fireplace

The central location on the web for the owners of manufactured homes to share their experiences.
David Oxhandler
Posts: 1459
Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 8:37 am

Re: Marco Fireplace

Post by David Oxhandler » Mon Feb 09, 2009 7:57 pm

Marco has gone out of business. There is no longer an active Marco website.  Listed below are a dealers offering replacement panels and parts for Marco fireplaces who would be best equipped to answer your question

The parts suppliers listed at

http://hearth.com/prod.html#parts

http://www.fireplaceguys.com/Parts/parts.html
David Oxhandler
[email protected]

dickehund
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2010 9:59 am

Re: Marco Fireplace

Post by dickehund » Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:38 am

I too have had all the aforementioned problems and been on the hunt for answers as well. Thanks to all for their little bits; they answer some of my questions too. Here is what we have found out along the way.
1) Chimneys are all too short! Yes, one foot above ridgeline is the minimum. When doing this it does expose the "chimney" (insulated flue pipe) to an increase in wind exposure. One would have to use a strap kit to secure the pipe to the roof decking and use at least four screws per section (around the pipe sections) to hold it together. Most any fireplace supplier, gas company servicing logsets, or store selling this style of chimney should be able to order it if it is not in stock. We got ours from Tractor Supply Company.
2) The chimney must have a cap or spark arrestor. If you do not have one do not use the freplace. In the case of the insulated flue pipe design common to MH units it serves two functions. It stops sparks and more importantly keeps the rain out: both from the top and the side. If it is not down securely it will allow water into the inside of the pipe assembly and perhaps into the fireplace insert.
3) The "leak down the door" is typically not from the roof flashing seal but the insde air space of the flue pipe. If your flashing is good and the roofing sealer in tact see above (2). There are two rain caps on this system. The first is at the flashing, and the second is the spark arrestor. The stain on the glass is actually drywall dust from the top of the insert. That indicates that the pipe is leaking above the flashing at some point. It also indicates that the insert is not level. When examining mine we found it to be tipped to the room at almost 15 degrees. We were able to reduce it to 5 by removing the face, mantle and wall board. What we found was a large bow in the midddle of the unit where the pipe had actually made a depression. It also made it very hard to seal abve to to expansion and contraction. Not being able to get it at the level position it was designed to be; we imrovised. Using the available framing inside the wall we wired the outer surround to give it support where it had been previously crushed in and vacuumed the dust and removed the extra pices of drywall. After that step the "chimney" has stopped moving. Outside wind noises are also reduced and the leking has stopped. The years searching for these solution have left the doors unusable. Thanks to you all we now have a source for them.
In closing let me say that this has been no small job. It seems it would have been easier on a regular house, maybe not. The fireplace is working and the ceiling fans seem to distribute the heat reasonably well. My wife is pretty much done chasing this and i only have a few more things i would like to try; her patients not being one of them. If requested I can prvide assistance in explaining how these are put together and how they come apart. Warning; before you start: have a plan and a budget with clear expections. You will need the patients of your family, some strong friends and a couple professionals along the way. Major repair is a good time to look at it; new roof, major interior redo etc

fjs340
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:31 pm

Re: Marco Fireplace

Post by fjs340 » Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:34 pm

Tell me about this lever, does it draw fresh air from underneath in the up or down position? 6years ago when I found mine I piped to a foundation vent with some metal dryer hose but my doors were gone so I really can't tell any difference in the fire. Just want to have it open on windy days like today to help draw?

My house is very tight, I have to open the front door leaving just the storm door closed to get it to draw at all and must turn the heat pump off until I get the fire really going good.

abraham.a
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Jan 02, 2011 4:12 pm

Re: Marco Fireplace

Post by abraham.a » Mon Jan 03, 2011 11:57 pm

can you plz share a pic of that , i really want to see that fireplace .

fjs340
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:31 pm

Re: Marco Fireplace

Post by fjs340 » Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:40 pm

I piped the intake vent from underneath to a foundation vent, sorry not gonna crawl under the house just for a pic.

fjs340
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:31 pm

Re: Marco Fireplace

Post by fjs340 » Wed Jan 05, 2011 6:26 am

Does no one know any thing about this control lever?

Frankie
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 12:59 pm

Re: Marco Fireplace

Post by Frankie » Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:05 pm

How do I get to the blower motor on a bm36hcd or 7927790 model

rmurray
Posts: 1086
Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 6:49 pm

Re: Marco Fireplace

Post by rmurray » Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:01 pm

It will be under the fireplace..Usually accessed by removing the lower vent cover at the bottom...

dickod
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:48 am

Re: Marco Fireplace

Post by dickod » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:51 am

I also have a Marco firebox and I am trying to locate a copy of the specifications. Does anyone have a set that they could copy or scan?

David Oxhandler
Posts: 1459
Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 8:37 am

Re: Marco Fireplace

Post by David Oxhandler » Mon Feb 27, 2012 3:53 pm

Marco built different fireplace boxes over the years. Try this web site http://www.uptheflu.com/profile.html. They offer replacement parts and would have a better idea than most about the specs of various models. or you can call them at 1-800-331-9234 or E-mail to [email protected]
David Oxhandler
[email protected]

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