propane gas or electric heat

[Charles Fulton]

I have ordered a new home which is not yet built. It will be placed on land I own in NW Arkansas, very high and open to wind from the south coming off a large lake and up the mountain side. It will be sheltered by trees and mountain on the north. We have ordered the home to be equipped with a propane gas furnace because it was my belief that it would be more fuel cost efficient than electricity. However, I have since heard that heating with propane fuel is more expensive and that it can leave a black residue inside the home. I have never lived in a manufactured home and have never experienced anything other than natural gas heating. Quick advise to this question will absolutely be appreciated.

[rmurray]

Geez....No black residue...As a matter of fact the furnace is the same for propane as natural gas...There is 1 small part call an orfice that is different...When the orfice is changed..natural gas runs the heater..

The propane gas companies claim the energy bills will be lower during the winter...They are probably right..

Good Luck with your new home.......

[Rachel]

Energy bills are insanely cheap during winter with Propane, but god help you if your propane runs out during the night. It's not fun AT ALL to wake up in a 22 degree house.

[Patrick Schoeffler]

Depending upon your local rates, but almost always the rule of thumb....Electric heat (strip heat) is the most INEFFIECIENT method for primary heating purposes. Depending upon the square foot of the home in question, requirements could vary from 15kw to more than 30kw nominal heating demands. (Imagine this as having a whole string of those portable, plug in the wall unit heaters that glow orange when on, and cause the wheel on your electric meter to spin like there's no tomorrow). Also note there is a full 100 amp more on the main breaker box, i.e. most doublewides with gas heat come factory with 100 amp main breaker service, while the same home with strip heat have a full 200 amp service. When breaking down the requirements of the home, the majority of that 100 extra amps is dedicated the electric strip heat furnace. Your oven and hot water heater draw no where near what the electric furnace draws. If you question the validity of this info, pop the door off the furnace and look at the size of the breakers on the furnace alone....and note that there is not 1, but 2 of them. Then note the rating on the breakers. Usually 40-50 amp breakers. Keep in mind there are TWO of them. 50 amps times 2 = 100.... If electric is your only option, consider a heat pump, and utilize it as your primary heating (and cooling) source. When the outdoor ambient drops below 32 deg, (give or take a few), then and only then will you utilize your strip heat (2nd stage emergency heat). Electrical requirements on a heat pump in winter months are MUCH less than a furnace with strip heat, as well as drawing less electricity the same system requires in summer months (System pressures due to a high ambient (increased pressures) take more electricity to operate the compressor than the same system with a low outdoor ambient, i.e. hot summer, cool winter). Also keep in mind this is not a big-deal conversion. You'll utilize the same heater, just a few more low voltage wires and installing a heat pump in place of the condensing unit, and a thermostat change. Also note as far as the natural gas to propane conversion, all furnaces manufactured today are capable of this feat, but there is more to it than just the orfices in the burners. You need the change the regulator spring in the gas gas valve as well. You will also need the adjust the valve for the proper fuel flow. (Natural gas: 3.5 inches w/c (water column) versus 10 inches w/c for propane) The home we're looking at has a gas furnace with a 90+% AFUE rating, which is excellent by todays standard (so efficient it condenses and requires it's own drain. Exhaust gas is vented through schedule 40 PVC (you could put your cheek on the flue pipe without any discomfort), and I will STILL utilize a heat pump as my primary heat source. I would not recomend anything less than a 12 S.E.E.R. (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) heat pump. Bite the bullit and spend the extra bucks in insulation upgrades (at least 19 wall, 22 floor and 30 ceiling). I'll put my manufactured home up against ANY site built home in energy efficiency.....All for about $35.00 - $40.00 per square foot. Hope this helps answer some of your questions...And please keep in mind, Opinions are like *******, everybody has one.

Good luck!